Skin tells a story—of health, science, and innovation. Few understand this better than Petru van Zyl, the driving force behind pHformula. With over 25 years of experience across continents, she set out to challenge the industry’s reliance on harsh treatments that often did more harm than good. Her solution? Controlled chemical skin resurfacing—an approach designed to work with the skin, not against it. Today, with a presence in over 45 countries, pHformula equips skincare professionals with the tools to prioritize long-term skin health over quick fixes. In an exclusive interview forWomen Building Empires, we sit down with Petru to talk about science-backed skincare, the myths she’s debunking, and what it takes to build an empire that redefines skin health from the inside out
Your career spans over 25 years and multiple continents. What inspired you to focus on controlled chemical skin resurfacing, and how did this passion lead to the creation of pHformula?
My journey into the skincare world was born from a personal struggle with acne in my late teens. Dealing with acne not only affected my skin but also my self- confidence, which sparked my interest in understanding the science behind skin and skin disorders. I became a qualified skincare therapist and skin specialist, and through that, I delved deep into the science of skin health and the importance of formulations that truly work.
My experience with problem skin, and the realization that many products didn’t address my concerns in a meaningful way, led me to seek out solutions for skin specialists that would make a real difference. I saw a gap in the market: while chemical peelings were available, they often came with side effects, especially for darker skin tones. This led to my passion for controlled chemical skin resurfacing, an approach that works with the skin rather than stripping it.
This became the core philosophy behind pHformula. I wanted to create products that were not just about quick results but about long-term skin health, tailored to professionals who truly understand the complexities of skin.
You’ve emphasised that skin resurfacing is an art, not just science. Can you share how this philosophy influences the development of your treatments and formulas?
I’ve always believed that skin resurfacing is more than just a scientific process; it’s an art because every skin type is unique, and every treatment needs to be personalised. While science gives us the tools—controlled chemical resurfacing with active ingredients—the artistry lies in how we apply those tools to the skin.
At pHformula, we ensure that every product is designed with a deep understanding of skin histology and sensitivity. Our treatments take into account factors such as phototype, skin tolerance and sensitivity levels. The goal is not just to resurface the skin, but to restore its natural health, balance, and strength. We use multifunctional ingredients that address inflammation, ageing, pigmentation, and other skin concerns, all within one carefully formulated treatment. It’s about finding synergy between the science of skincare and the artistry of applying it.
With the rise of consumerism in beauty, many women feel pressured to adopt lengthy 8-step skincare routines to achieve results. How do you approach and challenge this narrative?
At pHformula, we challenge the narrative that more is better. Skincare doesn’t need to be overwhelming, and lengthy routines don’t always yield better results. Our philosophy is built around the idea that healthy skin is a lifestyle, and it’s about consistency, not complexity.
We focus on delivering high-performance, multifunctional products that get straight to the point. You don’t need dozens of products to achieve beautiful skin. Instead, we encourage women to focus on the essentials: a professional skin resurfacing treatment combined with targeted homecare products to support and maintain the results. It’s about being intentional with what you put on your skin and trusting your skin specialist and professional treatments to deliver real, long-lasting benefits.
What are your go-to tips for creating an effective routine that doesn’t require dozens of products?
A simple yet effective skincare routine doesn’t need to be complicated. My advice is to focus on the essentials and make each product count:
Cleansing: Opt for a gentle yet multifunctional cleanser. A great example is our EXFO Cleanse, a 4-in-1 product that works as a cleanser, exfoliator, skin conditioner, and even doubles as an at-home mask treatment. It’s designed to deeply cleanse while offering exfoliation and conditioning, delivering multiple benefits in a single step. Choose a cleanser that suits your skin type while addressing various skincare needs simultaneously.
Treatment: Choose an active product that targets multiple, yet specific, concerns at the same time, such as pigmentation, acne, ageing, and chronic inflammation. These multifunctional treatments can help tackle various skin issues, offering a more streamlined, effective approach.
Moisturisation: A good moisturiser is essential to keeping your skin hydrated and protected. It helps maintain your skin’s natural barrier and ensures it remains nourished throughout the day.
Sunscreen: Never underestimate the power of sunscreen. It’s vital to protect the skin from UV damage, which accelerates ageing and pigmentation. Sunscreen is a key step in any routine to maintain long-term skin health.
At pHformula, our products are designed to work synergistically, so you don’t need an overly complicated routine. By using the right products consistently, you’ll achieve optimal results without overwhelming your skin.
For women with specific skin types—oily, combination, or dry—which pHformula products would you recommend as essentials, and why?
For women with specific skin types, like oily, combination, or dry skin, here are my product recommendations from pHformula:
For Oily Skin: I recommend our AC At-Home Skin Resurfacing Kit, which is designed to treat acne-prone skin while balancing oil production. It’s multifunctional and highly effective in clearing breakouts, while also promoting healthier, more balanced skin.
For Combination Skin: The CR At-Home Skin Resurfacing Kit is ideal for addressing uneven skin tone and providing hydration without clogging pores. It’s the perfect balance for skin that’s neither too dry nor too oily, offering both hydration and clarity.
For Dry Skin: Our AGE At-Home Skin Resurfacing Kit is essential for restoring moisture, improving skin texture, and boosting elasticity. It’s formulated to replenish dry skin, giving it the nourishment it needs to look and feel revitalised.
Each of these kits is simple yet effective, containing four products that are specifically designed to be multifunctional. They address targeted skin concerns without overwhelming the skin with unnecessary ingredients.
With pHformula present in over 45 countries, how do you ensure that your brand adapts to different skin concerns and climates across such diverse regions?
Adapting to diverse climates and skin types is key to our global success. Growing up in South Africa, I’ve worked with a wide range of skin phototypes and understand the unique challenges they face. Whether it’s the hot, dry conditions of the GCC region or the more temperate climates of Europe, we design our products to work with various skin types and environmental factors.
We tailor our treatments and formulations by considering the local climate, environmental stressors, and specific skin concerns prevalent in different regions.
For example, in hotter climates, we focus on products that control excess oil and offer protection against UV damage, while in colder, drier climates, our treatments emphasise hydration and barrier repair.
Education plays a huge role in pHformula’s mission. How do you equip physicians and skincare professionals to integrate your treatments into their practice effectively?
Education is at the heart of our brand. We provide comprehensive training for skincare professionals and physicians, ensuring they understand not just how to use our products, but why they work. This includes in-depth knowledge of skin histology, sensitivity testing, and how to tailor treatments to meet the needs of individual clients.
We also offer ongoing support through our pHformula Academy, THE ART CLUB, in Barcelona, where professionals can deepen their knowledge and stay up- to-date with the latest advancements in skincare. Our goal is to empower skin specialists with the confidence and expertise to deliver effective treatments that provide lasting results for their clients.
As a female entrepreneur and industry leader, what advice would you offer to women looking to build their own empire in the beauty or wellness space?
My advice is simple: stay true to your vision and purpose. Understand the problem you want to solve, and use your knowledge and expertise to create a brand that fills that gap. Resilience and determination are key—the journey won’t always be easy, but if you stay focused and work hard, success will follow.
The beauty and wellness industries are full of opportunities, but it’s important to innovate, stay authentic, and always trust your instincts. Surround yourself with the right people, learn from them, and be open to new ideas. And most importantly, never underestimate the power of self-belief and hard work.
With advancements in dermatological skin resurfacing constantly evolving, what’s next for pHformula? Which breakthroughs are you most excited about?
We are constantly looking for ways to innovate and improve our treatments. One area we are particularly excited about is the advancement of personalised skincare. As skin science continues to evolve, we see a future where treatments are even more tailored to the individual, based on their unique skin biology.
We’re also exploring new technologies, such as advanced delivery systems, to enhance the effectiveness of our products. At pHformula, we remain committed to staying at the forefront of skin resurfacing, ensuring that we continue to offer cutting-edge treatments that deliver real, visible results.
This article originally appears in Soigné Middle East’s debut print issue.
