In a simple white box, layered within an embroidered handkerchief and family photos of Simon Porte Jacquemus, attendees were invited to the Jacquemus Show at Paris Fashion Week. Held at the L’Orangerie, a garden at the Palace of Versailles, this show marks Jacquemus’ return to Paris Fashion Week after 5 years.
Tinged with the nostalgia of his youth, the mixed-gender Spring-Summer 2026 collection is a love letter to his family, culture, and the land of his upbringing. Titled Le Paysan (translated to: The Peasant), the collection is a tribute to the designer’s origins, as well as a reflection of his journey so far, going from childhood dreams to closing Fashion Week at the fashion capital of the world.
The show opened with a barefoot boy opening the door to the collection. What followed is an exploration of silhouette and structure to the tune of a whistle. The dresses pay homage to Jacquemus’ grandmother, reimagining the silhouette of her time, with volume that dramatically enhances each movement. Signature stripes, tight-fitting trousers, flowy dresses, and a crochet dress reminiscent of a vintage tablecloth also made an appearance on the runway.
The outfits feature a range of necklines, from the ever-classic high neckline to daring scoops, tailored V-necks, and delicate halters, offering plenty to take away for the modest dresser. Headscarves and gold-toned jewellery tied the looks together, with slightly messy hairstyles that mimic wind-ruffled hair.
The menswear incorporated skirts over pants, along with wide-leg pants and boxy, oversized tops that hold a delicate balance of form and fluidity. The collection also featured sleek suits, elegant jackets, and Bermuda shorts. Models also carried flowers or fresh produce, a touch that grounds us to the story of Le Paysan.
A major focus was drapery, with many pieces featuring pleats and soft gathers at the sleeves and neckline. Tassels and ruffles also made a brief appearance, adding a more playful feel to the collection. A new bag also made its debut on the runway. Titled Le Valerie, the handheld piece is named after the designer’s mother.
The palette featured the classic neutrals of black, white, and beige, with a hint of warm browns, light blues, powdered pink, and of course, butter yellow.
The final piece of the collection was a nude-coloured dress that mimic the very first drape the designer did on a dress when he was 8 years old, closing the story of a boy with his dreams fulfilled.
The end of the show was an emotional Jacquemus taking a bow, marking this homage as his most sentimental collection to date.
