Every year, we’ll find a new skincare item on the market with the handy label “TikTok Made Me Buy It”. From snail mucin to “milk” in skincare, hero ingredients keep popping up, coming with an impressive list of claims and a gimmick that makes time spent at our vanity a tad more fun. This year’s hero ingredient, azelaic acid, doesn’t come with all that bravado. In fact, it has been flying under the radar for a long time despite deserving praise. Unlike most acids out there on the market that can be harsh, irritating to the skin, or cause breakouts rather than solve them, azelaic acid is a gentle yet still effective alternative. If this is your first time hearing about the acid, here is our simple guide to understanding everything about azelaic acid.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Derived naturally in wheat, barley, and rye grains, azelaic acid is a gentle exfoliant that’s antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. It works to combat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation, without stripping the skin or further irritating it. It’s also one of the only pregnancy-safe acne treatments out there.
How Does It Work?
Azelaic acid primarily focuses on anti-inflammatory skin renewal rather than rapid cell turnover, hence why it is not as aggressive on the skin compared to other acids. Within the skin, it works by inhibiting tyrosinase—the enzyme responsible for melanin/pigment production—and blocks it, thus reducing hyperpigmentation, dark spots, rosacea, and existing acne scars.
As an acne treatment, the antibacterial properties help fight the bacteria that cause acne while also clearing pores, reducing excessive sebum production that causes breakouts in the first place.
Getting Started
Even though azelaic acid is touted as a gentle acid, we would still recommend beginning with a patch test, followed by a slow-and-low introduction. AKA, begin with the lightest dosage till your skin can handle frequent application. When it comes to formulations, stick to the standard of creams for dry skin, serums and ampoules for oily skin.
As you incorporate azelaic acid into your skincare routine, make sure to pair the formulation with complementary ingredients such as niacinamide or hyaluronic acid to make the most of its benefits. As for pairing with other acids out in the markets, reports mention that azelaic acid is safe to pair with most acids, but as always, refer to a dermatologist first if you plan to use azelaic acid with another acid.
And finally, although azelaic acid is relatively daytime-friendly, you should still pair the acid with an SPF because you never know with the Gulf heat.
The Best Azelaic Acid Products To Buy
The right product for your skin all comes down to its formulation and strength. Most studies mention that concentrations between 15–20% are the most effective. However, these products are prescription-based.
OTC products are usually in the 10-12%, or even lower, range. This doesn’t mean that they’re not effective; they are often provided as a booster to a skin routine and have generally shown positive results. The lowest concentrations are usually in cleansers, but since they are washed off and hardly on the skin long enough to be absorbed, it’s best to start with a serum, gel, or cream to see results. Here are our picks:
Anua | Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness
Formulated with 10% azelaic acid, aloe, and cica, this serum hydrates, reduces redness, is non-comedogenic, and calms sensitive skin.
BY BEAUTY BAY | 2% Salicylic Acid + Azelaic Acid Overnight Mask
For those who suffer with breakouts once in a while, this overnight face mask is a targeted treatment formulated with 2% salicylic acid and azelaic acid. Salicylic acid gently exfoliates the skin as you sleep, while azelaic acid and aloe vera help to reduce any inflammation. Additionally, fruit enzymes in this mask work to brighten the skin, helping to reduce any blemishes caused by breakouts.
Drunk Elephant | Bouncy Brightfacial™
Another salicylic-azelaic acid pairing, this one comes in 10% azelaic and 1% salicylic acid. As a mask, it mainly works to help with uneven skin tone, whether that’s spots, blemishes, discolouration, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, or post-acne marks. It’s a creamy, lightweight texture that sinks into the skin and plant oils such as marula, chia, fermented green tea, and pumpkin seed make sure the skin stays moisturised.
Paula’s Choice | 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
As a booster, it is formulated to be used on its own or mixed with other serums. With 0.5% salicylic acid and plant extracts, this booster does exactly what azelaic acid is meant to do, i.e. visibly reduce acne and uneven skin tone.
Purito Seoul | Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Teatree Serum
A K-beauty variant that sits on the shelves of most skincare lovers, this serum features multiple active ingredients—azelaic acid, tea tree oil, and kojic acid, among others—to target acne, clear out excessive sebum, and calm angry skin. Coming in a gel texture and formulated without any synthetic fragrances, it’s suitable for both super-sensitive skin and oily skin.
The Ordinary | Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
The product you probably saw making the rounds on social media. The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is exactly what the name says—a cream with 10% azelaic acid. Despite its cream consistency, we would still recommend following up with a hydrating moisturiser.
TIRTIR | Azelaic Acid 12% Serum
One of the stronger OTC concentrations out there, this serum by TIRTIR is a powerful targeted treatment for breakouts and excessive redness. Beyond azelaic acid, the serum also features zinc PCA to regulate excessive sebum and panthenol to hydrate the skin.
The INKEY List | SuperSolutionsᐩ 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
A serum specifically for rosacea, this serum is thin with a slight green tint to eliminate redness on the skin. Formulated with allantoin, it’s designed to be paired with other products, quickly absorbing into the skin and preventing any pilling.
