Naturally as things go, the fashion world moves from the snowy streets of New York to the rainy streets of London. But despite the weather doing what it always does, design, creativity, and craftsmanship persist. London Fashion Week has always been a particular fashion week compared to its contemporaries. Here we see a true mix of old and new, heritage brands alongside contemporary ones, big names slotted next to the niches.
It all comes under the direction of BFC’s newly appointed CEO, Laura Weir, who has waived show fees for designers and relaxed the barrier to entry for newly established brands. Hence, we get new narratives, new exploration of techniques, and most importantly, we see the UK’s diversity exactly how it should be, both on and off the runway. So, here are the collections worth revisiting and streetstyle worth screenshotting, all that embodies Brit’s best.
Tolu Coker
Kicking off London Fashion Week with King Charles III and Stella McCartney in attendance was LVMH prize finalist Tolu Coker. Shaping her brand with her blended upbringing between the UK and Nigeria, Tolu Coker’s AW26 collection was no different. Taking place at West London, the designer’s hometown, the messy basement space at 180 Strand was transformed into a catwalk ready to purr. With murals of Black Londoners and rustling dried leaves, we watched as the designer explored themes of grief and nostalgia all in the same breath.
Her signature cuts and bright, bold palette this time came with traditional prints, British tartans, and sculptural silhouettes. Sleeves were comically long, as if it were a child in adult’s clothing. On the other hand, cropped ties felt too small, as if an adult is wearing children’s clothing. As the looks continue, we watch an evolution of the self, rooted in confidence but not without the past at the back. The final two looks came in similar silhouettes to tie in Coker’s British-Nigerian identity. The first, a British tartan complete with patterned gloves to disguise the hands in a visual illusion, stands for Coker’s UK upbringing. And the closing look, a chartreuse suit with slim proportions, tells of Coker’s colourful Nigerian culture. The runway went alongside rapper Little Simz as she performed, incorporating her music into the story that was unfolding.
Maximilian Raynor
With a sombre but hopeful runway this season, Maximilian Raynor takes his broken heart and puts it into the clothes. Titled ‘‘Post Me Your Last Kiss”, Raynor transformed 100 Shoreditch into a mind trapped in time. With love letters webbed and suspended in the air, the runway presented the transformation from melancholy to hope. The opening looks began with tartans and sculptural silhouettes almost engulfing the models. It slowly faded to black, quite literally, as skirts and jackets got stiffer. The final look was a red velvet gown, where its geometric pattern created a visual hook with movement. Symbolising how the heart keeps beating on but not without its scars, Maximilian Raynor wears his heart on his sleeve and after this collection, encourages that we should do too.
Harris Reed
Harris Reed is one of the few at fashion week who can guarantee drama. But for this season’s collection, titled ‘MULTIFARIOUS’, Reed went for a more toned-down approach. Well, as toned down as can be. Architectural silhouettes and deliciously pointed accents still took over, but alongside them were tailored pants and simplistic gowns where the action comes from the natural form of the body. Corsetry and vivid patterns continued on, with this season’s collection going from burnt blues to gold gilded accents to a soft orange and black combo, almost resembling a tiger print if you squint hard enough. The finale was a quartet of brides, each in a different cut gown and coloured veils, which almost stole the show. After the release of Wuthering Heights, we could do with more dramatic veils, and Harris Reed knew exactly how to scratch that itch.
Street Style
With the unpredictable weather, street style for this week so far came with equal parts efficiency and fun. Loose denims, jackets that speak like murals, and funky accessories that include badges, quirky bags, decorative hair pieces, and of course, umbrellas, these were the best street style looks we spotted on the pavements of London.
