As Milan Fashion Week continues its momentum with a whirlwind of debuts and gobsmacking presentations, we take a breather for a moment to dissect all the arm candy that has been appearing on the runways. While the runways themselves are for narratives, fantasy, and theatrics, it’s usually the bags that stick with people long after the final bow. Last season, it was the Fendi Peekaboo, which is currently causing a stir online once again now that the SS26 is out in stores.
And last night, we wondered how Fendi would fare again, as Maria Grazia Chiuri opens her debut show. Surprisingly, the Peekaboo was hardly seen. In its place were a plethora of Baguettes, a design Churi helped develop back in the ‘90s. While the Baguette has always had a place in Fendi, this show felt like a reclamation of Chiuri’s roots. Beaded, furred, sequinned, and embroidered, there was no direction the Baguette wouldn’t go. Reminiscent of the original 1997 version, the Baguette brought the fun back from the past with minor tweaks in construction. The leather got softer and slouchier, and the handles got longer, trailing off. While not crossbody level, the lengthier adjustment makes for easier wear over bulkier garments like coats and jackets. Some of our favourites were the mirror work Baguette, which resembles prominent South Asian fashion, a zebra print Baguette featuring a bright red, lizard skin strap, and a grungy, stratched up version that we can expect to see on the streets of Berlin.
In fact, this season only further confirms the appetite the fashion-forward have for broken, worn-in bags. MM6 Maison Margiela followed through with that trend, showcasing large leather totes, all patinaed. Focusing mainly on corners and spots where a bag would get regular wear, it was the only textural detail on the bags. Time will tell whether these patinaed leathers were real or a trompe-l’oeil illusion, one of the maison’s house codes.
But MM6 Maison Margiela weren’t the only one going for the lived-in route. Jil Sander, a normally purist brand, also went the disruptive route with their bags. Or at least, as disruptive as they could go without abandoning their codes. Featuring a range of soft leathers and suede shoulder bags, the stylistic decision behind the AW26 presentation showcased just how soft they were! Scrunched up and worn like clutches—though not as abrasively as Coach—we saw how Simone Bellotti interprets a lived-in style.
Another “lived-in” style of bags came from Brunello Cucinelli. With a collection that tapped into British heritage, countryside aesthetics, and the tension between gender binaries, the bags accurately represented Cucinelli’s vision. Rugged yet still polished. Conservative silhouettes. And tartan motifs, earthy colours, and rustic elements. And while most of the collection was built for practicality, our favourite is a mini backpack, a small, rounded silhouette adorned with fur.
And from rounded to square, Onitsuka Tiger spotlighted their KARATE bag in their latest AW26 collection. Resembling a lunch bag, the boxy silhouette is made from soft leather, making it easily malleable. Featuring contrasting straps—a leather and a chain strap—the bag lends itself well to the streetstyle aesthetics that Onitsuka Tiger is known for, while remaining polished enough for everyday wear.
In the French capital, whimsical bags sat alongside shopper totes and prim and proper top-handle purses. Chanel debuts a quaint pomegranate clutch alongside open totes, maxi flap bags, and a hybrid Double Flap mixing the classic style with the 2.55 hangbag. Mock-croc leather was the standout star here as most bags featured the embossing in rich berry colours that would stand flush against your average winter coat.
At Dior, a similar take on texture was being experimented with, but instead of leather, we got jacquards, fabrics, and floral appliques. The Cigale bag was the key focus, and is probably Anderson’s parallel to the Lady Dior. And sticking to its theme of lily pads, we also saw the cutest clutch make its appearance. Made to look like a frog, it featured gold limbs and a lily pad green body. Cute and chic, while it might not fit much, it’s definitely a fun conversation starter.
And on a similar lens, Loewe’s runway—which was all about exploring joy and the idea of play—brought whimsy through bag charms. Shaped in leather animals, they stood out over structured Amazona 180s and scrunchable Flamencos. Styled with the bags left open, Loewe continues the bag trend of styling bags with their contents almost spilling over à la Hermes.
But Loewe wasn’t the only one. Balenciaga has its Rodeo bags intentionally left open to peek through. While the debut of a small shoulder bag with a centre ombre effect immediately made the rounds on social media for its off-kilter chicness. Appearing to look like a deliberate patina while also remaining stylish, this is Pierpaolo Piccioli’s take on “bags with character”—-intentionally beat up pieces that tell you more about a person before they even speak. Between the soft and unstructured Rodeo bag with its contents spilling out and the ombre flap designed to catch eyes, it seems like Piccioli’s take on this season’s arm candy rests on this vision.
