As Menswear SS27 wraps up, it is now time to sit and chew on each collection and exactly how we can approach their offerings. Beyond the discourse surrounding set designs and street style, we shift the conversation to the clothes themselves and the menswear trends emerging from these two weeks. While most were predicting sporty themes that aligned with the current state of the world, menswear instead went the softer route, bringing a more dynamic vision to life. And with this softness, these are the trends we’re stealing and incorporating into our own style.
The Blue-Collared Shirt
While a collared shirt for menswear isn’t anything new, a blue-collared shirt seemed to make appearances on plenty of runways. At Feng Chen Wang, they were styled with a cargo vest and light wash denim; at COMME des GARÇONS, they were akin to a blazer; at Sacai, they came styled with khakis; at Junya Watanabe, they came styled with bermuda shorts; and at Vetements’ unisex runway, they came styled with a trench coat and a checkered scarf.
Relaxed Tailoring
While on one end, runways like Prada and Rick Owens were debuting a skinny, slim fit—akin to recent Gucci womenswear collections—we also saw the opposite take place with loose, relaxed tailoring. Dolce & Gabbana and Dries van Noten showcased this the best, with shoulders dropped down and pants baggy and decorated with floral embroidery and broderie-inspired designs.
Matching Gloves With Handbags
Although seen exclusively on Dries van Noten, it’s a styling detail we’re sure to incorporate in our own wardrobes! Creating a camouflage moment, it also makes for a unique way to incorporate colour blocking.
Frayed Hemlines
While frayed hemlines used to mean that a garment had reached the end of its lifespan, runways like QASIMI and Dior are turning this notion onto its head. While QASIMI takes inspiration from Emirati artist Hassan Sharif and his work of frayed edges, Dior has frayed hemlines across its blazers, a deconstruction moment that was previously explored in their womenswear collections as well.
Balloon Sleeves
The rounded silhouette is commonly associated with womenswear so it was refreshing to see Saint Laurent turn this silhouette into colourful anoraks, softening the jacket. Feng Chen Wang also took a balloon-inspired sleeve silhouette into its outerwear, making for chic but casual spring jackets.
Embellished Denim
Runways this season really turned up the bling with embellished denim. At Louis Vuitton, we saw pants and jean jackets subtly incorporate a colourful logo. While Dolce & Gabbana and Junya Watanabe were more outspoken with their embellished pieces, covering a garment in pins, necklaces, and brooches.
Stripes
If womenswear has the polka dot pattern holding them down, then menswear has stripes. From pyjama separates to soft linen suits to collared shirts to bags, runways this season couldn’t get enough of a striped pattern, making us wonder if we’ve been sleeping on the versatility of this print.
The Menswear SS27 Palette
This season has been a rush of vivid colours! While runways like Yohji Yamamoto and Thom Browne stuck to their signature black and grey, others like Saint Laurent, COMME des GARÇONS, Vetements, Louis Vuitton, Dries van Noten, and more decided to experiment with ombre gradients, acid neon tops, purple and green leather, and colour-blocked pant legs, giving the modest dresser plenty of inspo to brighten up seasonal wear.
