As Fashion Month kicks into gear, we watch how beauty continues to add to the fashion story. At New York Fashion Week, we saw the tension between utilitarian and romanticism alongside a reimagining of past trends. And within this spectrum, these are the trends we have been loving.
Twisted Ponies
While some runways kept their slick buns, others decided to play with looser forms. At Cult Gaia, hair was inspired by the idea of undone beauty, working to create something that was loose and casual but still restrained in an ultra-low ponytail. At TWP, a similar concept was applied with a low pony that was folded into a clip rather than tied. For those who like to keep their hair loose and free, this is one of those experimental looks that plays with the best of both worlds.
Grunge Eyes
At Diane von Furstenberg, eyes were set sharp with liner and even heavier with dark, shimmering eyeshadow. It’s a reimagined return to past looks, where glam took centre stage.
Acid Bright Eyeshadow
On a similar note, runways that didn’t go fully grunge but still experimented with colourful eyeshadow looks were Kim Shui and Proenza Schouler. Between pastel and shimmery finishes, the eyes were designed to look anything but natural. At Proenza Schouler especially, makeup artist Emi Kaneko decided to use the eyelids as literal canvases, with swathes of colour streaking through like coloured pencils on paper.
Boy Cuts
From the bob to the pixie, now the latest trendy haircut among the runways is the Boy Cut. Less layered than the pixie and borrowing from more masculine hairstyles, we saw this cut appearing on models across Coach and Simkhai. Its bluntness makes for easy styling, but time will tell if this cut translates to the mainstream crowd.
Vampy Lips
Seen across Khaite, Rachel Comey, and Sandy Liang’s runways, the nude, plush pink pouts of the past were replaced by dark cherry colours instead. While Spring-Summer rarely calls for such a dark aesthetic, it works seamlessly when paired with all the animal print we’ve been seeing.
‘80s Hair
The ‘80s have suddenly become a focal point in contemporary culture and the runways are one of them. At Khaite and Diane von Furstenberg, hair was given the poofy treatment, volumised to the extreme, creating the old-school party look. Whereas at Christian Siriano and Christian Cowan, hair was crimped and knotted in a refreshing, nostalgic way.
Blush as the Focal Point
On skin, runways were mainly using blush to carry their stories. At Cult Gaia, makeup artist Raoul Alejandre gave models a diffused blush that was swept across the cheeks and nose, creating a flushed look pairing with the house’s SS27 theme. At Dauphinette, blush was placed downwards to create a baby face effect that played with the house’s idea of memory and nature.
Everyday Hair
From Tory Burch to Cult Gaia, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger, most runways opted out of designing hair into a storytelling piece, letting it sit in natural, everyday forms instead. At Tommy Hilfiger, it was tucked into hats; at Tory Burch they naturally framed the face; and at Ralph Lauren, they were turned into soft waves with texture and frizz.
