When Khadak’s invite to try out their limited-time only curated dining experience arrived in my inbox, I took one look at what the 8-course meal had to offer, and knew I had to try it for myself.
Saturday afternoon, my date and I headed out, and were two minutes away from the restaurant, located at Wasl Road, Jumeirah, when we got the call from them, politely inquiring about our whereabouts – this same kind of proactive service would set the tone for our meal to come.
The meal itself unfolded over the course of three hours, but, honestly, it didn’t feel like that much time at all. Time flowed as smoothly as our curated meal did. The old Bollywood tunes playing on the speakers and the view from our table, of an airy, green Indian-style veranda didn’t hurt either.
We began with non-alcoholic drinks – featuring a Belgian blonde and a sparkling white wine. I will sadly admit that I do not have a refined palate and cannot stomach drinks that taste like alcohol but are not alcohol, but my date reported his beer was very crisp, very light, and marked a promising start.
Our first appetizer was Karari Kale Chaat, and never in my life had I thought kale could be alchemized into such a delicious dish. Kale tempura so light and crispy, it simply dissolves in your mouth, with a wondrous mixture of tangy chutneys and yoghurt, and pomegranate pearls so perfect they must have been hand-picked.
When our server, Krishna, came around to ask about the dish, we told him we were obsessed with the kale chaat, and he happily informed us – everyone was! It was one of their most ordered dishes, as well as having been on the menu that got Khadak their Michelin Bib Gourmand earlier this year.
Moving on to our second appetizer, we were served bite-sized Morel Cheese Kulchas, with a side of lush truffle butter, on a beautiful dish shaped like an open, white flower (+1 for presentation!). I took a tentative first bite and felt gooey goodness consisting of cheese and rich mushroom hit my tongue. Slicing off the truffle butter, I let it melt on the kulcha and continued to savor the buttery remains.
Our third appetizer, the Chicken Shami, came to us straight from the lanes of Bhendi Bazaar in Mumbai, giving us a taste of Noor Mohammadi, all in one carefully constructed plate. Placed on a miniature roomali roti, the kebab was very fine with a crispy crust, and a spice level that had a real kick to it. Krishna had advised us to fold it up and eat in a bite, but I took my time to finish it, and my date deemed it the best item we’d had so far. In my humble opinion, though, the next appetizer was a strong contender for that title.
We’re talking about a haleem made from kathal, or jackfruit. Khadak’s ingenuity with their vegetarian dishes is truly amazing. It just goes to show the rich cooking tradition that exists in the Indian subcontinent, where the most ordinary legumes translate into extraordinary textures and tastes, all because of the skill and talent of a chef. The touch of lime, crispy fried onions, and julienned ginger added to the layers in the dish – and the accompanying saffron-scented sheermal was just right. Not too sweet and buttered just right; it was the perfect pair.
After all these appetizers, we really needed a palate cleanser to prepare us for the main course. And, of course, the thoughtfully curated menu accommodated for that. We received, in a petite bowl, Pomegranate Chili Gola, a deconstructed version of the roadside ice golas I love to slurp down when I’m at Juhu Beach in Mumbai.
I remarked at some point, to my date, that crafting such a menu, that truly felt like a story, a passionate retelling of one’s journey through an artistic endeavor, must feel so rewarding. In other words, I could tell the menu and all the dishes within had been crafted with immense care and attention to detail.
We received our second round of drinks – Balkar Singh’s Gruff Cooler and Ann’s Martini. The latter was an absolute delight, both to look at and sip on. Lychee, citrus, and soft rose awakened my senses and brought color to my cheeks. An incredibly girly drink, I love.
My date, on the same wavelength, thoroughly enjoyed his drink, describing it as perhaps the best drink he’d ever had. In his own words, “the lingering taste of the pink grapefruit was brought out by the lime and basil, and the whole drink came together harmoniously”, also, noting, “this would be unstoppable as a cocktail.”
When Krishna arrived to clear our table for the mains to be brought in, we started talking about the drinks with him, particularly the cooler, and he told us it was his favorite drink on the menu, because it reminded him of his childhood. Though he couldn’t place the exact memory, it was something about the sweet tartness of the grapefruit.
And I was brought back to readings of Marcel Proust, when he wrote about having madeleines at afternoon tea, and being shot back into a realm of dreamy, faded nostalgia as soon as he bit into the tiny cake. Food carries with it so much meaning and memory and emotion. Yes, we can eat at the fanciest places and enjoy it a great deal, but none of it holds even a candle to the simplest of treats from a time that has passed us by, a time shrouded in that mystical haze of the past.
Our mains consisted of Guntur Butter Chicken, Moong Daal Ghosht, with sides of Daal Makhani, and served with our choice of bread (Chili Garlic Naan for the win!). The butter chicken was rich and creamy, the plum tomato sauce making its presence known, while the daal ghosht with goat shank was unbelievably tender; succulent meat melting right off the bone.
Moving on to the dessert portion of our meal, we were first served up with Mango Milkcake, delicately constructed and beautifully presented. Soft sponge cake, soaked in saccharine mango milk, topped with cream, and adorned with chunks of ripe mango bits and tiny flowers.
Our second dessert, Chocolate Chikki, was a bite-sized delight featuring dark tahini chocolate, with salted peanut toffee, and a chikki (sesame shortbread) as the cherry on top. Both desserts were incredibly lush with completely different flavor profiles, yet they seemed to work in tandem to gently direct us to the end of our meal.
To end with, we could choose between an Irani Chai or House Blend Coffee, and, if you know me, you know I never say no to a cuppa. The chai was served piping hot, and went strong on the cardomom, in a glass reminscent of the Irani cafes of Hyderabad, where they drew their inspiration from.
In closing, our lunch at Khadak was a slow, indulgent journey that gave us a taste of all that the restaurant had to offer, and I have already made plans to revisit, perhaps in cooler months, so I can enjoy their lovely outdoor seating area. I can see it now – chatting with friends, sipping on chai, and sharing a wonderful meal.
