In 2015, Mariah Idrissi appeared in H&M’s Close the Loop campaign, making history as the first model to wear a hijab in a global fashion advertisement. The campaign made her the face of a cultural turning point, pushing modest fashion into the global spotlight. Ten years on, she has grown from campaign model to cultural commentator, navigating an industry still learning how to reconcile inclusion with authenticity. In an exclusive conversation for Soigné Middle East’s second biannual print issue, Mariah praises the shift that has seen modest dressing embraced across faiths and identities, but is unsparing about the gaps that remain. Speaking now from Dubai—after years shaping the conversation in London—she reflects on the progress, the frustrations, and the future she envisions for modest fashion as both an industry and a movement.
Nearly a decade has passed since your 2015 H&M campaign put a hijab on a global billboard. Looking back, what single shift in fashion’s understanding of modesty feels most refreshing, and what gap still frustrates you?
The shift in understanding that modesty can and should be mainstream because people from all faiths and backgrounds are free to choose to dress modestly is refreshing. The driving force for this movement is a collective of designers, journalists, bloggers etc that help shape a better understanding of modest fashion globally.
The gap that still frustrates me is that modest fashion is a lifestyle and not just an aesthetic for most people. I’d like to see this reflected more in campaigns and choices of models as well as considering the ethical process of modest fashion from farm to fabric.
Describe the outfit that lets you enjoy late summers without compromise, and why those pieces matter for modest dressers who love the beach.
I love linen or cotton co-ords and kaftans for the beach because they don’t need layering and the material is airy and light. Those pieces matter for me because the style is timeless but also convenient so to have fashion that looks great and serves a purpose is a win-win!
How do your dual roots influence your fashion sense?
Growing up in the West, I wanted to stay connected to my culture. I grew up in a very multicultural part of London so trying to ‘fit in’ wasn’t a huge thing for me. I would naturally wear Western clothing because that was accessible and what I liked to wear too; however, I wasn’t afraid to express myself through fashion which is where accessories, patterns and prints from my cultures played a role in my style.
After years in London, you relocated to Dubai. How do opportunities— and public perceptions—of modest fashion differ between the two style capitals?
I’ve been exploring Dubai for over 10 years but I’m still quite new as a resident! I’m back and forth often and still navigating that but I can confidently say, wearing the hijab in Dubai is far more comfortable and normalised (naturally).
Oceanic hues dominated SS25 collections, what trends do you hope for modest resortwear brands to adopt before the next season?
I’d love to see a bit more fun with print on burkinis and improved swim turbans (ones that stay on better). Perhaps this is more of a resortwear request than a trend!
When the post-holiday blues kick in, where do you retreat and which personal ritual (movement, music, meal) resets your mood?
I’ve found creating a routine works best for me after holidays and retreating somewhere beautiful and sunny over the winter holidays – usually that would have looked like going to Dubai or Saudi Arabia so I guess I won’t have to retreat anywhere this year! Sitting outside in the sun and meditating/reflecting resets my mood. Binge watching a good series and eating something I love also works too!
Name one practical change that luxury beach clubs could implement tomorrow to make coastal leisure genuinely inclusive?
Women only swim hours that include women only staff on site would really help make things more inclusive at luxury beach clubs. I do love spending time at the ladies club but to have more options would be great!
Tip us off to one under-the-radar modest designer, who deserves the next big global moment, and what sets them apart.
Leem does it for me! I’ve been following their journey as a brand for some time now and collaborated with them. I wouldn’t say they’re under the radar so to speak but they are definitely one to watch especially if you’ve not come across them before.
Fast-forward five years: if you could headline one initiative that would permanently upgrade the modest- fashion landscape, what would it be and why?
This is a big question! I would headline an initiative that would be for the launch of a global modest fashion accelerator – a platform that incubates and supports emerging designers who cater to modest wear and ensure there are conditions to be met in terms of what qualifies it as modest wear. It would focus not just on creating clothing, but on embedding modest fashion into the mainstream fashion infrastructure.
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