As London Fashion Week SS26 draws to a close, we take a retrospective look at the shows and filter out the best modest looks that we can add to our wishlist. Taste, tailoring, and theatrics, we saw a mix of emerging talent and LFW stars light up the runway with their creations. From vintage dolls coming to life to sculptural works that look as if they defied gravity, here’s everything you missed so far at this season’s London Fashion Week.
Burberry
The show we couldn’t wait to see was Daniel Lee’s Burberry. Considering the passing of Ozzy Osborne, the show felt like a tribute to the music icon. Under a tent which had a painted blue sky, we saw a clear reference to 70s era fashion in the form of pastels, acid wash denim, A-line dresses, and vintage aviators that were likely a reference to the music legend. The standard Burberry print was missing, but there were plenty of checkered printed trenches and jackets that reminded us of that iconic Burberry style. Beyond the sequins, grunge and python print, we also got some suited fits that spotlighted Burberry’s craftsmanship and tailoring. Overall, this collection was an ode to fashion and British music, painting us a vision of Britain’s colourful music culture while simultaneously honouring its loss.
Bora Aksu
Unnerving yet meticulous, Bora Aksu’s SS26 collection was inspired by broken vintage dolls. So we see beauty in imperfections, such as repurposed dead stock, giving each piece a “worn-in” look. The collection featured plenty of lace, cotton, gingham, and tulle that were dainty, delicate, and would perfectly suit the Gulf weather.
RIXO
With Boho fashion making a comeback, our attention was naturally turned to RIXO, whose SS26 collection ‘We Are One’ drew on signature boho styles intertwined with 60s activism, which naturally fits the fashion. Models held peace protest signs as they presented their fits—printed dresses, bold colours, and billowy tops paired with maxi skirts. It was both a trip down memory lane and a call back to current-day events.
Patrick McDowell
Opening Day 3 of London Fashion Week was Patrick McDowell, with his SS26 collection titled ‘The Lancashire Rose’. Aiming to reimagine heritage, the collection was a blend of British heritage fused with modern sustainability practices. So sharp tailoring was done to recycled fabric, and pieces were fashioned with a rose motif and a Digital Product Passport.
TOGA
TOGA’s SS26 collection was a collection that penetrated beyond face value. Titled ‘Ordinariness, Mediocrity, Versatility’, we saw everyday staples given a twist that makes you do a double-take. We saw skirts plain on the outside and playful print on the inside, trousers pleated with lace, and jackets tailored with extra fabric that simultaneously look as if they are bursting at the seams and naturally part of the silhouette.
Ahluwalia
For those who love fluid and plush pieces, Ahluwalia’s SS26 collection, ‘Affinity’, was rich in silks, cottons, and baggy denim, juxtaposed with fine tailoring. Exploring the theme of love, we saw a vivid colour palette of reds, pinks, and blues that depicted sensuality, passion, and softness. The standouts for us were the fringe suits, where a plain black suit was elevated with a ruby red fringe.
Roksanda
Celebrating their 20th anniversary, Roksanda’s SS26 collection was nothing short of avant-garde. A series of sculptural works was intercut with fluid fabrics that appeared to defy gravity. We also saw printed silks and plenty of extra-long fringe that added drama with each movement.
Talia Byre
Talia Byre’s SS26 collection, ‘Real Estate’, was the latest to reimagine a designer’s past. Drawing on the everyday woman, the collection offers pieces and captures the daily life of the average woman. We saw gigantic oversized rugby shirts offering comfort, a sunglass case with a lanyard offering practicality, while her signature stripes were contrasted with a plain white button-up.
Simone Rocha
One of the most anticipated shows of this week, Simone Rocha’s SS26 collection channelled a moody teenager as its muse. We saw crossed arms, messy hair, and deformed pieces. The collection mainly featured panniered silhouettes, cut-up jackets, and plastic vinyls over silk dresses. And although bold and dramatic, there were plenty of high-rise necklines and midi and maxi pieces for the modest dresser to choose from to channel their angst.
Edeline Lee
Closing Day 4 was Edeline Lee’s ‘The Circus’. Embodying the theatrics of a circus in every piece, the collection was fun and sculptural, with plenty of tassels, ribbons, ruffles, and polka dots. There was also plenty for the modest dresser as their necklines and silhouettes offered plenty of coverage, while the designs kept things light and playful.
Chopova Lowena
Chopova Lowena’s SS26 collection ‘Cheerlore’ was an ode to maximalism, eccentricity, and chaos. With plenty of textural layering, gothic makeup, and references to high-school football, this collection is for those who are weird in a good way, think there is no limit to layering, and won’t stop finding a new colour combination that represents themselves.
