As Riyadh Fashion Week continues on with its momentum, it proves that it is shaping up to be a defining fashion influence regionally and globally. Since its inception, it has made waves, establishing that fashion has truly gone global and that sartorial influence can take shape beyond the current Eurocentric calendars.
This edition, global opener Vivienne Westwood and the stars sitting front row are all adding on to that legitimacy. From Thai actress Faye Peraya to Saudi’s darling Georgina Rodríguez, the off-runway crowd was nothing short of spectacular.
Speaking of the runways themselves, we witnessed the capital turn into an avenue of craft, couture, and creativity. With heritage at the heart of each collection, there was a lot to admire. We’ve rounded up looks that stayed with us long after the final bow.
Leem
Since its establishment in 2018, Leem has made itself known for contemporary modest wear. Their AW25 show continued that ethos, where classic Saudi silhouettes were modernised for the contemporary woman. Inspired by 70s couture and modern art, we saw a rich palette of sand tones contrasted with rich burgundys and metallic multicoloured pieces. Kaftans, tunics, and bishts were all reinterpreted in contemporary silhouettes and textures, whereas separates were mainly fluid, with relaxed proportions that draped the body. One standout look was a multicoloured kaftan with relaxed shoulders and billowing sleeves. In a printed plisse fabric, it is one of those pieces that was made for all-day wear, sophisticated yet comfortable for the modest dresser and emblematic of Leem’s AW25 collection.
Rebirth
Amongst the sandstone background of Bedrock, the bohemian brand presented a collection rooted in motion. Titled “Tactile Gestures”, the collection explored life through texture. As such, looks couldn’t help but sway; the texture of each outfit was in conjunction with its movement. Fringes, tassels, and draped fabric were the main focus, highlighting Rebirth’s precise tailoring and craftsmanship. The palette was fairly minimal, and so were the accessories, with just a few looks featuring statement earrings. Keeping all the attention on the clothes, Rebirth’s collection was a statement on bringing the inanimate to life, where design and form can echo a free spirit.
AMEN
Graceful, yet unapologetically bold was the key focus of AMEN’s SS26 collection. Titled “Lunatica”, this is the debut collection of Rome-based designer Valentina Nervi. Known for her work in eveningwear for labels like Ermanno Scervino and Roberto Cavalli, her debut for AMEN showcased a softer approach in line with the Italian brand’s house codes.
Known for its pieces that revel in romance and femininity, this collection felt no different, with fluid fabrics made even more delicate with embroidery. Dedicated to the phases of the moon, we saw romantic looks juxtaposed with slightly edgier ones—delicate pastels were contrasted with rich jewel tones, whereas all black ensembles followed after light chiffon dresses. All channelling the brand’s signature moon motif, AMEN’s collection was a celebration of both the light and dark sides of femininity, and her ability to be both, neither, and all in between, just like the moon.
WAAD ALOQAILI
WAAD ALOQAILI went the nautical route this season, presenting couture in oceanic motifs, mimicking cascading waves, shiny shells, and sandy shores. Titled “YAMAL”, this collection was a testament to WAAD ALOQAILI’s craftsmanship. Intricate hand embroidery was all over this collection, where sculptural gowns and headpieces featured fresh pearls that radiated a delicate shine and resembled the movement of water. Whereas the details revealed subtle cultural signatures of Saudi oceanic landscapes, blending heritage with contemporary design.
Ashwaq Almarshad
Ashwaq Almarshad’s SS26 collection revelled in volume and texture. In a rich palette of neutrals, pastels, and jewel tones, we saw floor-length gowns, jackets, and capes, made even better with embellishments and appliqués. When there was none, the fabric was the focus—velvets and tulles were pleated and cinched in, manipulating the fabric to visual depth. The result is a collection that reveals grace and unspoken confidence that pulsates through the fibres of each piece.
Aram
Another designer with a nautical approach yet Aram took on a more whimsical flair. From the palette, which featured bold strips, madras checks, and the region’s cultural motifs, to the accessories of fish earrings, suitcases, bandanas with crab motifs, and ocean ring purses which added a theatrical touch. However, beyond the whimsy, this was a resort collection that dressed the modern Saudi on a coastal vacation. From sharp tailored blazer dresses to relaxed abayas, kaftans, and cotton maxi dresses, Aram’s resort vacation collection proved that there was more than meets the eye.
SV by Saudia
Closing day 3 was an unexpected runway by Saudi Airlines. Debuting their new line, SV by Saudia, we saw aviation wear reimaged in Saudi sensibilities. Under the creative direction of Mohammed Khoja, founder of HINDAMME, the collection was strong in its utilitarian approach, marked by clean lines. The pieces themselves were athlesiure you would expect to wear at the airport. Hoodies, bomber jackets, joggers, and polo shirts were all designed in the brand’s signature green and white and with insignia of airport life. A true unisex collection that we would honestly find on all ages, this was a runway that pleasantly surprised us, considering the odd concept.
HINDAMME
Inspired by the concept of East meets West, HINDAMME’s latest runway featured Western forms with Arabian motifs. So Western pieces like dresses and shirts featured an Arabic font, whereas hats that resembled a fez were reimagined in contemporary fashion through leopard print. Animal fur coats and scarves, and lacquered leather jackets, also added an edgier aesthetic to the collection. Creative head Mohammed Khoja explained that this collection is inspired by the Hejaz region of Saudi Arabia, and so we see plenty of references to the major cities of the Hejaz region as well as the Red Sea. Influencer Lama Alakeel channels that ethos as she closes the show in a silk, hot pink gown with a veil embroidered with the Arabic phrase “عروس البحر”. Translating to “bride of the sea” it is a reference to Jeddah as the “bride of the Red Sea”.
