Last night, the fashion world was brought to a standstill over the news of designer Valentino Garavani’s passing. The announcement arrived via a statement shared on Instagram by the Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti Foundation, confirming he passed away peacefully at his Roman home, surrounded by loved ones. For anyone who’s ever understood the power of a perfectly cut gown, it felt like a final curtain call, one of couture’s true giants taking his last bow. What he leaves behind is a legacy built on drama, colour, and unmistakable Roman spirit, and a signature that never needed an introduction.
Born in Voghera, Lombardy, in May 1932, fashion became Valentino’s first love as a child and never left. He apprenticed under his aunt and then local designer Ernestine Salvadeo before moving to Paris at the age of 17 to study at the prestigious École des Beaux-Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. That is where he learnt couture techniques and the foundations of French style, both of which marked his collections in later years. It was also in Paris that he apprenticed under Balenciaga, Jean Dèsses, and Guy Laroche.
Returning to Rome in 1959, he began to set up his own studio with the help of his father. It was in his first collection here that he introduced the famous Valentino red dress, inspired by a previous trip to Barcelona. Introduced in his first Spring-Summer 1959 collection, titled “La Fiesta”, the dress was a strapless cocktail dress made of tulle. The bright red shade quickly went on to become his signature colour, featuring in every collection. In 1999, Valentino celebrated his 40th anniversary in fashion by presenting 40 red dresses. There was no doubt about it, the hue was synonymous with the maison. And Pantone agreed, allowing Valentino to have his own colour, a mix of magenta, yellow, and black, AKA the Valentino Red.
In 1960, Valentino met his partner, Giancarlo Giammetti, and together they founded Maison Valentino in the same year. Giancarlo took care of business while Valentino focused on couture collections and ready-to-wear. The first couture show took place in 1962 in Florence, Italy, and soon enough, Valentino became a household name among celebrities, aristocracy, and socialites. One of whom was Jacklyn Kennedy-Onassis, who became one of Valentino’s close friends. Frequently sporting his designs, the designer also went on to create her wedding dress for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis in 1968. This led to another colour being associated with the house, Valentino White.
Throughout the years, Valentino carved out his name in fashion’s playbook. His designs were a statement on luxury, grandeur, and a heady blend of French and Roman sensibilities. His name became a red carpet fixture, dressing stars from every era you could think of—Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Nancy Reagan, Julia Roberts, Anne Hathaway, Gwyneth Paltrow, and more.
In 2007, he announced his retirement, staging a final haute couture show in 2008. A tribute to his design philosophy, the runway was a dreamy, ethereal presentation, featuring a pastel colour palette. Beaded chiffon, lace, and satins were crafted into delicate, feminine pieces that felt airy and light. The collection ended with red gowns, a hallmark of the designer and his house.
Following his exit, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were appointed as duo Creative Directors. Together, they launched the Rockstud Collection—fresh for 2010s fashion yet still a callback to ancient Rome, a distinct house code for the maison. The collection became a symbol of 2010s fashion, bringing the house into the contemporary era. In 2021, the Rockstuds returned to the SS21 runway. More recently, the shoes adorned the feet of everyone’s favourite “dragon lady”, Miranda Priestly—although it’s not a surprise to most fashion fans, because the designer was a cameo feature in the 2006 movie.
Equal parts elegance and drama, what Valentino brought to the world was modern glamour that still bore the soul of old-school techniques and craftsmanship. Where people forego traditional standards to innovate, Valentino blended both for the sole purpose of creating simply beautiful clothes to adore and be adorned in. And it is what marks his legacy—a man so flamboyant, fashion-forward, and observant, he couldn’t help but pour all the beauty he saw in the world into his clothes.
