There is no denying that Simon Porte Jacquemus is a romantic man, where love for his people, land, and culture all manifest into stitches presented with equal parts seriousness and wit. His latest FW26 collection was no different. Held at the Musée National Picasso-Paris, a return since his infamous SS18 “La Bomba” collection, “Le Palmier” begins with his daughter’s hair.
Bunched and tied in a topknot, the “palmier” hairstyle is a common one for French toddlers and was the springboard for Jacquemus’ doozy collection—referencing 1950s French couture, 1990s sensuality, and the cheeky humour of 1980s French TV and cinema. And witnessing the collection on the front row were Anna Wintour, Damson Idris, Elton John, Elizabeth Olsen, K-POP girl group ILLIT, and more.
Geometric shapes took centre stage here. Rounded shoulders, sculpted waists, circular hats that felt like lampshades all cascaded down the stairs of the 17th-century mansion. Juxtaposing them were ruffles, feathers, and technicolour polka dots that especially took a playful spin on menswear dressing. A lesson on volume and proportion, the pieces played with the edge of being restrained versus being free.
Between the designs was how they were being styled. They were “tilted”, just like the “palmier” that was sported on most models. Ties were swooshed to the side, ribbons came with a side knot instead of a full bow, and a model wearing a single earring was also spotted, adding to the childlike nature of the presentation.
The collection also came with revealing cuts and fitted forms, but along with them were also plenty of high necklines and fun hemlines in the form of trench coats, draped dresses, and taffeta suits, all of which the modest dresser could easily add to their closet.
Accessories also played the part between seriousness and comedy. The Le Valérie bag, introduced last season, appeared in an East-West clutch, whereas a woolly bag resembling a sheep appeared as well. Made to be a duffel bag, the piece is eccentric but not totally off for Jacquemus.
With culture joking about going a decade back, Jacquemus leaned in further—taking the vibrancy of childhood, foundational French fashions, and the creativity screens once possessed, and turned it into a contemporary collection steeped in subtext. The Jacquemus woman is poised, but Picasso’s paintings, she’s also fun, playful, and comes with all her nuances.
