I vividly remember my first tunic that I got from my local high-street in London.
I’m not even sure if it was for swimming but we made it work. We’ve all been there. A decade ago, searching for the perfect burkini left you with two options: an over-sized, bright orange piece that dragged you under the moment you hit the water, or an oversized T-shirt and leggings combo better suited to the gym than the beach. Modest swimwear felt like an industry afterthought, technically modest but completely uninspired with zero consideration for style, fit or function.
Even when a few high-street labels released some modest swim options in the mid-2000s, simple coverage was the only priority. These burkinis came in boring, straight cuts, made of a basic nylon fabric with not one performance detail. No special fabrics, no flattering silhouettes, and certainly no innovative details.
The burkini has long carried political weight. Banned in France and loaded with political symbolism, this single garment has always been a point of controversy and at the heart of debates about freedom. Yet, for modest fashion consumers, wearing a burkini isn’t a symbol of restriction, but instead a statement of empowerment. In 2019, Halima Aden graced the cover of Sports Illustrated in a vibrant blue burkini, a symbol that showcased modest swimwear’s arrival in the fashion world.
That moment signaled the industry’s evolution into the thriving market we see today, with this change being driven by us, the consumers. Modesty has shifted from a compromise into a conscious style choice, and the gap between mere coverage and choosing modesty as a power symbol is rapidly closing. Today’s modest women expect swimwear that not only respects their values, but also can keep up with their personal style.
Modesty isn’t one-size-fits-all—ask around and you’ll hear a new definition every time. Some shoppers reach for ankle-grazing skirts, others just want a longer sleeve. Because those comfort zones vary, brands have to stock a full spectrum of cuts to keep up. Furthermore, modest coastal-wear shoppers span the globe, have wildly different style preferences, and shop for a host of reasons. Religious observance, sun protection, athletic performance, or simply personal comfort and confidence are among some of the reasons.
In 2011, British TV star Nigella Lawson ignited controversy when she chose to wear a burkini purely for sun protection, proof that motivations run deeper than faith and that even the most practical choice can spark debate. We saw a similar theme recently, when Hollywood star Anne Hathaway wore a burkini on the Amalfi Coast for sun protection – yet this time she was met with widespread admiration rather than debate, highlighting how far attitudes have progressed. Truly inclusive labels recognise this complexity and design collections that feature options for all consumers.
When we look at the British mainstream fashion industry today, it’s clear that brands are working to meet this demand. Marks & Spencer were considered the first mainstream brand in the UK to carry modest swimwear in 2016 and since then we have seen major retailers like Next, Adidas and Nike follow suit.
But the real breakthroughs are happening at specialist, modest swimwear labels across the globe. The global demand for modest swimwear combined with the recent boom of the luxury travel industry fueled by social media, has spurred real innovation. In today’s modest fashion market, we are seeing performative cuts, quick- dry technology, tan-through fabrics, UPF50+ weaves, adjustable hoods and anchoring loops.
Yet, despite this incredible innovation, many of us still default to super fast fashion pieces. I know this cycle all too well. Until just a few summers ago, I was trapped in the annual routine of buying a cheap modest swimsuit every year. They weighed me down in the water, rode up when I swam, took forever to dry, and fell apart after just a few wears. Having worked with multiple modest swimwear brands globally, I’ve seen firsthand how premium fabrics and meticulous craftsmanship translate into swimwear that performs year after year. Fast fashion brands can’t match the innovation and quality these brands are offering.
If the past decade taught us anything, it’s that modest coastal wear isn’t a small trend, it’s a surging market riding double- digit growth. To create collections that truly stand out, brands need more than token pieces. True innovators design with intention, grounded in the real struggles and desires of modest dressers. Above all, they are transparent, champion sustainability and built-to- last construction for pieces that will stay with consumers for years to come.
And the market goes where we spend. Sure, the fast-fashion burkini feels like a win at checkout, but the seams usually give out by August (and landfill picks up the tab). Why not back the labels offering quality modest swimwear instead? Buy once, swim often, pass it on.
This article originally appears in Soigné Middle East’s second biannual print edition.
