Why There’s More Fabric, Less Skin on Recent Runways and How It’s Not Just About Modesty

Demure is in, chaos is out.
Celine SS26

By now, you’ve probably scrolled past enough runway photos to notice: there’s way more fabric and way less skin this season.

Oversized bows, swishy hemlines, flouncy sleeves, and our personal favourite, whimsical Peter Pan collars, have taken over the runways for Spring 2025. Gone are the micro minis and bodycon dresses that defined post-pandemic dressing.

But this new wave of modesty isn’t just about being ‘demure’, as Tiktok would say – it’s also about value, literally.

In a world where luxury prices are climbing and fast fashion is losing its shine, shoppers want more than just a crop top for their money. Designers are responding with clothes that look and feel luxe – we’re seeing evidence of this in the structured suedes at Prada, the intricate lace and ruffles in a recent boho-chic renaissance (see: Chloe’s SS ’25 show) and column dresses that, for once, don’t come with thigh-high slits.

We’re seeing richness in texture and more surface area for playful details, like pintucks, appliqués, drapery, embroidery, all of which signal craftsmanship and justify the price tag.

Maybe we are in a recession, but that doesn’t mean we can’t look chic anyway.

This shift also unlocks new styling opportunities.

Longer lengths and layered silhouettes invite more creativity – just ask the nearest Hijabi you know. A floofy blouse under a slip dress, a sharp blazer over a ruffled gown, a bow peeking out from under a coat. Instead of one-note “going out” looks, these pieces are versatile, easy to re-wear and restyle in a dozen different ways, for all different occasions.

Then there’s the cultural undercurrent. Designers like Miuccia Prada, Celine, and Raf Simons are playing with the idea of “demure”, not in a prudish way, but as an aesthetic rebellion against the noisy, and chaotic fashion eras we’ve been experiencing recently.

These recent trends show that covering up can be just as stylish, and perhaps more luxe-presenting, than not.

Picture of Saher Azmi

Saher Azmi

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