There’s fashion, and then there’s haute couture. Twice a year, Paris becomes the stage for fashion’s most extraordinary displays of expertise, where garments are measured not in trends but in hundreds of hours of embroidery, draping and hand-finishing. While ready-to-wear often looks to the future of everyday dressing, couture exists to celebrate imagination at its highest level.
This season, Paris Haute Couture Week once again delivered breathtaking artistry. Arab couture houses continued to define modern glamour, while established maisons and contemporary designers offered fresh perspectives on what couture can be. These are the collections that stood out.
Elie Saab
Few designers understand occasion dressing quite like Elie Saab. This season, the Lebanese couturier once again delivered the romantic allure that has become synonymous with the house, presenting impeccably cut coats, sharply tailored jackets and refined daywear that brought a fresh sense of versatility to the runway, proving that haute couture extends far beyond evening dressing. Rich textures, intricate embellishment and luxurious fabrics elevated every look, reaffirming why Saab remains one of couture’s most celebrated names.
Zuhair Murad
For Fall/Winter 2026–2027 Haute Couture, Zuhair Murad invited guests into a mysterious secret garden after dark, where romance and strength existed side by side. Rich shades of deep green, burgundy, black and amethyst set the mood, while intricate embellishment transformed gowns into wearable works of art. Velvet, crystals, feathers and delicate floral appliqué appeared throughout the collection, alongside butterflies and botanical motifs that echoed the dreamlike narrative. While Murad’s signature evening gowns remained the undeniable stars, tailored black coats and sculptural outerwear offered a striking contrast, proving that couture can feel just as captivating in its quietest moments as it does in its most extravagant.
Ashi Studio
For Autumn/Winter 2026 Haute Couture, Ashi Studio presented A Different Skin, a surreal collection that reimagined historical dress through a dreamlike lens. Ghostly military silhouettes, porcelain-inspired creations and enigmatic court figures blurred the line between fantasy and reality, showcasing Mohammed Ashi’s signature theatrical vision.
The craftsmanship was equally remarkable. Leather was manipulated to resemble glazed porcelain, Japanese paper mimicked fallen leaves, while hand-painted insects and gilded embellishments transformed each look into a work of art. Sculptural, imaginative and technically exceptional, the collection reaffirmed Ashi Studio’s place among couture’s most visionary voices.
Manish Malhotra
Manish Malhotra made a deeply personal Paris Haute Couture Week debut with Maa, a collection dedicated to his late mother. Divided into four chapters, the collection traced his journey from childhood to adulthood, celebrating the enduring power of a mother’s love through emotion, memory and craftsmanship. Sweeping silhouettes, exquisite embroidery and intricate Indian artisanal techniques came together in a moving tribute that felt both intimate and monumental, marking a memorable couture debut on fashion’s grandest stage.
Robert Wun
Robert Wun looked to childhood for his latest haute couture collection, transforming nostalgic memories into extraordinary works of wearable art. Drawing inspiration from fairy tales, toys and childhood dreams, the collection featured sculptural silhouettes, exaggerated tailoring and surreal details that blurred the line between fantasy and reality. From Disney-inspired references to oversized teddy bears, transparent helmets and balloon-like forms, every look reflected Wun’s signature theatricality and technical precision. Imaginative yet deeply personal, it was one of the week’s most captivating celebrations of couture as storytelling.
Boloria by Olivier Theyskens
One of the week’s most anticipated debuts came from Boloria, the new house led by Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens. Returning to the Paris runway, Theyskens embraced the dark romanticism that has long defined his work, presenting dramatic gowns, sculptural tailoring and sweeping trains in an evocative palette of black and midnight blue. Gothic glamour, antique-inspired detailing and fluid bias-cut silhouettes came together in a collection that felt both hauntingly beautiful and unmistakably his, marking a compelling new chapter for one of fashion’s most distinctive creative voices.
